Comments on: XG-SF2000 Review - XG-SF3000 Review

By: jim.beaven

jim.beaven — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 21:27:39 +0000

Hi Hal,

Sounds like we’re getting same crap under a different name on this side of the water. Mine’s a 3000W. The Chinglish instructions fail to mention if the fuel cut off should be horizontal or vertical (pointing down) for on. Could you enlighten me?

This one’s a manual start and it’s run happily for about 20 minutes and now nothing. I’m going to try your suggested fix to see if that works, although I suspect I’ve flooded it.

Great review, by the way. Wish I’d seen it before purchasing this hunk of junk. Any tips to keep it servicable for as long as possible to get some return on investment?

Cheers,

Jim

By: Hal Hayes

Hal Hayes — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:49:52 +0000

When it stops after 5 min, loosen gas cap slightly and try again. if it starts then gas cap vent is probably plugged.

By: mhughes70

mhughes70 — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 23:25:06 +0000

Nope, it loses spark. Tried it twice over the past couple of days. Wait a few hours and it starts right up, the dies after 5 minutes.

By: admin

admin — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:13:53 +0000

Now that you cut the two wires the low oil pressure sensor should not cause the engine to stall. Since the only thing that can now disable the spark is your on off switch it must be a fuel problem. Just to be sure, when it shuts down, do you have a spark still? I suspect you do.

Lack of fuel, may be the float in the carburetor is stuck closed? Could be enough fuel until it runs out. May need a cleaning. You choke does work and it is open? Contact the guys who sold you it, that should be an interesting conversation!!

By: mhughes70

mhughes70 — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:43:32 +0000

OK. I found the two wires you mentioned and cut them. Same problem though, the thing run for 5 solid minutes, then shuts down and will not restart.

Any other thoughts? I was thinking of trying to take the low oil cutoff switch out of the circuit.

By: mhughes70

mhughes70 — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 12:10:27 +0000

10-4. I’ll give this a shot over the weekend and let you know how I make out. One thing that may be different is that the kill switch is not in the loop on this. This unit has electric start, so the key switch is the kill switch in this case. I’m not sure if the ones you have are electric start as well. This may not make a difference in the wiring configuration though.

Will let you know what I find.

By: admin

admin — Mon, 06 Jul 2009 00:29:11 +0000

Remove the screws that hold the panel in place.

You will find a a BLUE and BLACK wire coming together from the ignition coil to a cable connector. (The blue wire on ours has a bit of a loop on it, it is longer then the rest)

The other side of the connector there is 4 wires on it. Two go the engine kill switch on the panel. The other two go to the panel control board. (White box with epoxy in it) You can cut both wires that go from the connector to that control board.

This will cause the ignition coil to ignore the control board and only power off the engine if you turn it off yourself.

Please update us, interested in how many others out there have the same defective crap.

By: mhughes70

mhughes70 — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 23:49:35 +0000

I have one of these that I bought last year. It ended up being less watts than I needed so it sat unused most of the time. I would start it every couple on months or so jut to run it. Today I started it up and now it will only run for 5 minutes, then shuts down and has no spark. If you could tell me where you ended up getting the ignition control board as well as what the part number is I would appreciate it. I think that may be the problem.

Thanks.